|Alternor wiring starts at the positive terminal of the battery. Wire A1A is 10 ga. black and runs to the 'Batt.' stud on the starter relay where it is held by a nut. The big red wire goes directly to the post on the starter. That post is 'hot' as long as the battery is connected.|
|From the 'Batt' stud, the power continues on A1B which is a 16 ga. dark blue wire with tracer. That's the fusible link that provides power throughout the car except for the horns. The small wire (H1 16 ga. violet) provides power to the horn relay. Thus the horn relay always has power whether the ignition key is on or not (as long as the battery is connected). Wire A1B goes into the car through "Z" on the firewall bulkhead connector. It's hard to tell where "Z" is but it seems to be on the bottom left of the connector. The big brown wire is connected to the solenoid stud in the center of the relay and from there connects to the solenoid terminal on the start. The two smaller wires power the relay from the ignition switch start position and ground through the Park/Neutral transmission switch.|
From "Z" inside the car, A1, a 12 ga. red wire, connects to the Batt. stud on the ammeter. The ammeter studs are 'hot' if the battery is connected. Always disconnect the battery when working around the ammeter (as in pulling the instrument panel). Don't risk a short to the metal dash; it could start a fire and burn up all the dash wiring.
From the Alt. stud on the ammeter wire R6A, 12 ga. black, goes to a splice and continues as R6 to the "B" terminal in the bulkhead connector. Other wires from the splice branch out to supply power to lights, etc. The red and the black wires above the radio knob are the ammeter wires.
Finally, wire R6 - 12 ga. black - goes from "B" on the bulkhead connector on the firewall directly to the Batt. stud on the alternator. This stud is also 'hot' whenever the battery is connected. Be careful not to short your wrench between the stud and and metal on the engine, brackets, or body. The battery doesn't discharge through this stud unless one or more of the diodes has shorted out.|
Now to the power for the alternator field winding. The green wire is R3. It's 18 ga. dark green and connects directly to the FLD terminal on the voltage regulator and supplies power to the alternator field winding. As shown in this photo, this end of the wire comes out of the wiring bundle on the right and loops back to the field terminal on the alternator.
|Bundled with the two alternator wires at the front passenger side of the engine are the temperature sensor wire and the A/C compressor power wire. I don't have the compressor on the engine yet.|
|The field wire from the alternator connects to the FLD terminal on the top of the voltage regulator which provides the proper volgage for the alternator field winding. From the IGN at the bottom of the regulator wire R5, 18 ga. Drk Blue, connects to th inlet side of the coil resistor. This voltage reglator has electronics inside instead of the coils and switches of a mechanical regulator. The outside and the connections look like the original, but it works much better.|
|Wire R5 from the regulator and J2, the 16 ga. Drk Blue wire w/tracer connect at the terminal on the passenger's side of the coil resistor. In this photo the coil resistor has been bypassed to provide a full 12 volts to the electronic module in the distributer and to the high power coil. J2 goes back to "Q" on the bulkhead connector and then continues inside the car to connect to the ignition switch "Run" position. Power for the ignition switch comes from the splice in R6A previously mentioned.|
|PAGE ONE - This page gives some details about the Barracuda and its history. There are photos of all sides of the car,photos of the short block in the car and the empty engine compartment, and shots of the greasy engine as it was pulled out. There is a photo of wreck damage to the left front fender. There are photos of the heads that have been in storage for 20 years after they were rebuilt. There is a photo comparing the original carburetor that was destroyed in storage and a NOS carburetor that someone gave me. There are photos of the automatic transmission and the gas tank. Links to other web articles are located on Page One|
|PAGE TWO - Page two has more detailed photos of the exterior and interior of the car. The pinstripes are shown and the dash and instrument panel. Front bucket seats and folding back seat and trunk panel. Photos of grille sections and taillight.|
|PAGE THREE - This pages has photos of the engine rebuilding work in progress at Cookie's Auto Machine Shop. It shows the bare short block, piston installation, and Cookie at work.|
|PAGE FOUR - Page four has 14 images showing the completed engine after it was painted and then after the exhaust manifolds, pulleys, fan, brackets, distributor, coil, and such had been re-installed. It seemed to be easier to install all those things before putting the engine in the car. My only concern is fitting the left manifold around the steering column while dropping the engine in.|
|PAGE FIVE - Page five has photos and comments of the engine re-installation. I demonstrate that I can carry the transmission (without the torque converter). There are a couple of photos of the clean engine compartment before the engine was installed and then a couple more of the engine after it was installed. I photographed the antifreeze warning and battery charge warning decals on the radiator support panel.|
|PAGE SIX - Page six has a photo of the Barracuda parked out in the driveway on the first day of spring 2004 and closeups of the carburetor as it is installed and the engine compartment with the engine in running configuration. It has been driven about 15 miles since the overhaul. There is a photo of the bottom of the car and of the left rear axle and brake parts with the wheel and brake drum removed.|
|BRAKES - Photos of complete rebuild of front drum brakes including removal of backing plate and regreasing bearings. Photos of back brakes and bearing plus back brake hose.|
|Alternator Wiring - Photos showing every connection from battery to alternator power output terminal and wiring through the voltage regulator to the field connection on the alternator. The wire I.D. numbers for the shop are given along with wire gauge and wire insulation color.|
|Instrument Panel Removal and Disassembly - This page shows photos of the instrument panel partially removed from the dash and the various connections that are made there. It also has detailed photos of the instruments and the printed circuit boards on the back and details of the speedometer mechanism.|
|A-Body Gas Cap Replacement - Photos of combining an old replacement cap and a new Stant 11811 cap to make a usable replacement for the original.|
|Original 66 Barracuda Radiator Photos - Photos of my original radiator.|
|1966 Barracuda Owners Manual - Selected pages from my owners manual.|
Skipper Family Magazine|