1998 Generation III Plymouth Grand Voyager Expresso Mini-Van Miscellaneous Repairs.

Electric Window Regulator Replacement

The '98s are officially 14 years old now and since the regulator is inside the door where it is exposed to the moisture and heat, this job is pretty difficult. The inside door panel snaps to the metal door panel with place snaps which have hardened from the heat and half of them broke as I pried the panel off. I'm glad the panel didn't break where the snaps attach. In the old days the cardboard panels with metal snaps had a tendency to tear out leaving a hole in the cardboard so the metal snap would no longer fasten to it.

Switch Panel

Switch panel mounting screws. The screw at "A" is supposed to be covered by a little plastic plug, but they seem to fall out. "B" isn't visible until the door is opened.

Switch Panel Removed

Remove the two screws and put them where they won't get lost. Panel comes right off after the switch connectors are disconnected. The screw indicated by the "A" is one of the two screws that fasten the door panel to the door.

Switch Connector

First slide the safety lock strip at "A." Then squeeze the other catch to get it to lift over the back up safety catch. You may have to use a small screw driver flat blade to lift it.

Screw at Armrest.

This screw helps hold the door panel to the door. It has to be removed also. In the '60s the armrests were held to the door with two VERY LARGE screws.


I inserted my old faithful paint scraper between the door panel and the door to try to locate and pop the plastic fastenes loose. The ones at the front popped out of the holes at the front of the door, but the heads of the others broke off.

Pins at back

The heads of these four plastic pins broke off. I'm just glad that the door panel "holes" didn't break out. The weather seal was much better than the ones they used long ago, however, it had become brittle from years of heat and basically just crumbled up.

Door Handle Connection

After the two screws are removed and the plastic pins are popped loose, lift the panel up out of the groove in the rubber weather stripping at the bottom of the window.

Next you have to reach behind the panel and disconnect the door latch rod from the door handle. The white plastic clip shown with the arrows holds the end of the door latch rod in the hole in the door handle on the inside of the door panel. The part by the "A" arrow has to be unsnapped from the door latch rod, and then the end of the rod can drop down as shown at "B."

Door Latch Rod

The door latch rod end goes up into the plastic clip on the door handle and then the clip is snapped back onto the horizontal part of the rod.

Manual Door Lock

Now the door panel can be lifted off the manual door lock and set aside.

Removing weather seal.

I used the paint scraper to remove the weather seal. When I folded the weather seal up to clear the openings in the door, it just crumbled into pieces and I removed the entire sheet. Weather seals from Chrysler products of long ago were just thin sheets of clear plastic.

Bracket Screw, Bottom Bracket Screw, Top

These photos show the lower rear screw holding the rear regulator to the door and the upper front screw. The mounting screw threads were stuck where the black iron screw threads go into the galvanized supports. I put some oil and WD-40 on the threads and left them over night. I bought a heavier Torqx tip set (T40 is the size required) and broke the mounting screws loose after they sat overnight.

The holes the the screws fastin in are designed with a slot for adjustment up and down, and they also have a larger "key hole" the the screw head can go through. However, I had to leave the screws out of the upper end of the brackets and started them after the bracket was at the hole.

Regulator Motor Mount Screws

The three bolts for the regulator motor also have the T40 Torqx head. They thread into rubber mounted thread inserts. I managed to get one of them untreaded, but just pulled the others out of the holes. The replacement regulator came with standard bolts and nuts.

Regulator Motor Mount Screw

This is one of the bolts with the rubber mount and thread insert.

These photos show how the brackets on the bottom of the window glass attach to the slides on the regulator brackets. The left half of the photo shows the hairpin clip. The clips have to be removed to release the glass from the slides. The right half of the photo shows what you see of the clip when looking through the holes in the door. Be sure the glass is supported some way (block of wood or tape) and just put a flat-blade screwdriver in the end of the clip shown by the "A" and pop it out.

Door with regulator removed

The regulator has been completely removed. The bottom edge of the glass is visible and it is held up with tape on the outside of the door. I moved it all the way to the top before installing the new regulator and secured it there with tape.

Door with regulator removed

The regulator has been completely removed. The bottom edge of the glass is visible and it is held up with tape on the outside of the door. I moved it all the way to the top before installing the new regulator and secured it there with tape.

New Regulator

This is the new regulator. I think that it is better overall than the original. This view is of the side that faces the outside of the door. A - Use the original screws. The new regulator came with a long screw here. It's purpose was to provide support between the mounting arm and the bracket and keep it from bending. B - I had to take the upper screw out because I couldn't get it to fit into the upper key hole in the door.

Front Bracket Installation

This looks like a mess and it is tricky. Install the front backet (or slide rail) first. Put the top in the hole first and move it up and back until the bottom will go through the hole. The motor has to go almost into the hole for this to work.

Rear Bracket Install

Then put the back bracket (or slide rail) in, top first, and move forward intil bottom end clears the hole. Move the bottom down and back and the top can be moved back where it goes. Notice the door re-inforcing bar fastened to the outer door skin visible near the top of the hole.

Regulator installed

The regulator is installed but not connected to the glass. The motor and cable spool assembly is fastend to the door inner skin with the three new bolts that came with the regulator. The power cable is not connected. The original motor had a connector built into its housing. The replacement has a connector on the end of a short cable.

Glass connected to slides.

There are two brackets on the bottom of the glass. The brackets have metal "pins" that clip through the hairpin clips on the slides which hold the pins in the slides. The slots in the slides allow some side to side movement.

Panel Snaps

I call these plastic pins or snaps. Maybe they're called trim fasteners on the box. The fasteners were not all the same. These green ones were at the front top and they were easy to pull out of the holes in the door metal the ones at the rear bottom where white and seemed to have a locking feature. I took one off and took it with me to O'Reilly's as an example.

Door Panel with four new plastic fasteners

I replace the four fastener pins at the rear and bottom. They weren't like the originals but worked OK. They didn't hold the panel in place as tightly as I expected them to.

Weather Seal

I couldn't find my heavy black plastic, but found an old plastic tarp. I glued it with "Goop" and held it in place with masking tape until it dried. I had to remove some of the tape which showed outside the door panel. I also had to cut some more room for the door latch rod and for the cable. I brought them through too low on the door.

Old Broken Slide

This is the broken slide from the old regulator. It broke at the cable attach point indicated by the "A." That is all it took. The end of the other cable is still in place.

The window glass

I reused the bracket screws. They mount through keyhole slots at both top and bottom, but I couldn't get the top screws through the hole in the slots, so I had to take them out. But do start the bottom screws before putting the brackets in the door.

Put the front bracket in first. Top first and toward the back far enough for the bottom of the bracket to go into the hole. The electric motor assembly has to go part way into the hole to make this work.

Put the back bracket in top first. Swing it forward and down and move the bottom up until it will go through the hole. Then move the bottom down and the top up and toward the back. Put the bottom screw heads into the key holes and tighten at the original positions. Then put the screws in the top. SEE PHOTOS. Go Back To: REPAIR INDEX

Skipper Family Magazine

E-mail me: jamesmskipper1141@att.net

Posted: 1/15/2012