This motor mount was replaced on a 1998 T&C with 195,000 miles. During an oil changed I noticed that the engine side of the motor mount seemed to be too low so I decided to replace the mount. I've since checked my 1999 and 2000 T&Cs and the motor mounts on them look OK.
This photo shows the new motor mount installed (left) and the old, sagging motor mount (right).
These are the tools I used:
Two hydraulic floor jacks and jack stand.
15mm and 10mm sockets with extensions and ratchet or break-over handles
15mm end wrench to 'backup' the bolt
1. New motor (engine) mount (about $100) as it would be viewed from driver's side below. (The motor mount is designed to accept a cylindrical insert which is cheaper, but I certainly couldn't have pressed one out and the other in. Probably use the new one to press the old one, but a big press would be required.)
2. This photo shows how the second hydraulic jack supports the engine. It helps to have two, one to raise the car to provide working room and the second to take engine weight off the mount. Loosen the nut on the connecting bolt while weight is still on it. Then by adjusting the two jacks the weight on the connecting bolt can be removed. And that's necessary for getting it out and then back in.
The bolt through the motor mount is 15 mm with 15 mm nut. The three bolts holding the mount bracket to the car frame are also 15 mm.
3. It helps to loosen or remove the two 10mm bolts holding the plastic bumper cover to get better access to the lower bolt.
4. Passenger side of old mount - almost torn through. There were big cracks in the other side also.
Pearland Meals on Wheels
A Ministry of Pearland Churches
Skipper Family Magazine|